Spoleto

Founded in 241 BC, Spoleto was considered by Cicero to be Rome's most beautiful province. Until about the 13th century it controlled much of central Italy, and then dropped off the radar when in 1201 the Duke made a gift of the province to the Papal States. Gian Carlo Menotti founded the Two Worlds (Italy and the U.S.) arts festival here in 1958. Now called the Spoleto Festival, in July this year one of the guest performers was Baryshnikov – you get the idea. It's an international big deal.

Our problem last night was gravity. We were both exhausted, and this city is all uphill. I mean UPHILL! The young woman at the hotel's desk recommended a place for dinner, and we started to climb. The air was pretty thin by the time we found the place, but it was soon apparent that the ordeal was a small price to pay for the outstanding dinner. I'm running out of superlatives, but I ain't complaining. See Valerie's post from yesterday - she nailed it.

Very nice breakfast in a charming old-world dining room full of Italians visiting from other parts of the country, and all chatting up a storm, swapping info from table to table.

Visited lower town churches, then headed slowly back UPHILL where we had lunch and then visited the beautiful Duomo (frescoes by Lippi). The approach to the Duomo is a lovely staircase where today a film crew hushed us as they were shooting a scene to one side of the piazza below, in front of the church. A "priest" ran to the waiting Carabinieri (police) car to ask something of the cop. And then the "priest" ran to the waiting Carabinieri (police) car to ask something of the cop. And then the "priest" ran to the waiting Carabinieri (police) car to ask something of the cop ... about 6 takes while we watched. Locals sought the guy's autograph so I took his picture. Two bucks for anybody who can identify him.

Later, the museum of modern art. A very large, beautiful gallery space with a collection based on the Spoleto festivals - prize winners and gifts (quite a few Calders, eg). Some apparently big names from Italy, none of whom were familiar to me.

the 'priest'has the beret on, under the microphone. Squint!

Thanks David!

Well, David continues to amaze me with his driving and navigation skills.  You really need a sherpa guide and a camel to get around successfully in these hills.  We had another reservation at our favorite restaurant again tonight and thought we would save the legs and take the car.  OOOOps.  David ended up dropping me off fairly close and driving around looking for a spot.  After a few minutes he

came back looking defeated and simply couldn't find a legal spot to park.  The stunning hostess at the restaurant offered to park the car for him.  Happy camper!

I don't know why I've turned into the food reporter.  I hate food.  I've been on a diet for the past 25 years if not longer.  But the food here is more like crack, or heroin.  Once you've tasted black truffles in extra virgin olive oil with porcini mushrooms on bruschetta, you're ruined.  They ought to open truffle clinics.  We found a tiny store that sold all sorts of yummy stuff, and the woman, Sandra, showed us the Lonely Planet guide with her name in it.  Thats where I had my first hit of truffle.  Sandra knows her

stuff. We got out of there with a few tasty things to bring home.

Tomorow were off to Assisi.  Buona notte.