Firenze via Bologna

On the train at 9:15.The Termini station in Rome seems to harbour armies of little people who make their living by ushering befuddled tourists around the station, showing them (us) how to punch train tickets in validating machines, where the correct platform is and how to check the departures boards for last minute changes ... all good until the "tour" is over, and your shepherd waits beside you until you wake up to the fact that this is not just a Good Samaritan. She wants money. She wants 5 euros. I gave her 2 and a half. Still, this wasn't so bad as we'd have been quite a while finding everything on our own.

Unfortunately, the process distracted us from the important step of having our Eurail passes stamped at the ticket counter before boarding our train. The result was an embarrassing encounter with the conductor on the train, and an embarrassingly large fine before he applied the necessary stamps.

So, consider all of that plus the fact that, although I knew there were two major stations there, in the past I had entered Firenze only through the Santa Maria Novella train station. As we pulled in to Campo di Marte station, I confidently assumed that we'd arrive at S.M.Novella shortly to debark. And nobody came by to check our point of departure as they do with Via rail ... AND, the stop at Campo di Marte was so quick that several other parties of tourists missed the stop just because they weren't fast enough on the draw.

How do I know that other people missed the stop? We ran into them at the ticket counter in Bologna station 30 minutes later. After racing to get our crap together to get off at Bologna, we found someone to scribble permission on our tickets, and (without charge) went back 30 minutes to Firenze. AAAaargh! Stupido Davide!

Very hot in Firenze - about 28 degrees. But we have continued to have clear blue skies, and the worst of the heat is confined to midday. Mornings and evenings are beautifully cool.

Checked in to Hotel Palazzo Ricasoli. It's about a 5 minute walk from the bus roundabout at Piazza San Marco, which is another 10 minute walk from the old city. Yesterday evening we walked around the Duomo, the Uffizzi, the Ponte Vecchio, etc. and then found a great spot for dinner. They actually had gluten-free pasta.

Re: gluten free. I have been fine here, but not because Italy is a haven for celiac dietary needs as I was led to believe by celiac web sites and other people's travel blogs. Baloney! (I suppose that should be Bologna!). No gluten free pizza crust anywhere. I'm left slavering over the sight of Valerie's gooey, sausage littered, gorgonzola adorned gems of pizzas, while I munch away on lettuce. Awww ... no, it's really not so bad. The salads have been fantastic, and I am gorging on prosciutto melone, one of my favourite dishes.

D

OK David, Confessione is good for the soul!  Crossing the palms of gypsies, not so much!  I have some confessions of my own: consider this missive to be from the Shopping Channel.  I got out of Rome with two great leather saddle bags and some flashy key tags.  Attacking Firenze from the North (via Bologna: sounds like something Napoleon would do), has been a very successful tactic for me.  I am now the proud owner of some fabulous fabric from Etro, and 3 Hermes(like) silk scarves.  The Nigerian salesmen go crazy when they see me coming:  they run after me on the street lowering their prices as I nonchalantly stroll away.  A fake Prada purse went from 50 Euros to 18 at which point he walked away, conceding defeat.  A print of Botticelli's Primavera went from 25 Euros to 5.  I actually felt sorry for the man.  Hah!

That was yesterday.   Today (Saturday) was full of more delights: The Uffizzi Gallery; the Botticelli Venus, the Primavera, (the real one), cappuccino and chocolate croissant on the roof overlooking the Duomo and the Palazzo Vecchio.  Aaah.

After lunch and a nap, we visited the Academia to see the David.  I now belong to a new club: those who have stood at his feet and wept.  As W. Shakespeare said:  "Oh what a piece of work is man."

We staggered out in search of the Bargello which we found closed and headed back to the Ponte Vecchio.  Fun t-shirts and fashions and a gently setting pink sun. Tomorrow is another day.