Sono celiaco.

Once again I am softening my attitude about what seemed to be excessive claims of accommodating gluten free diets. While not every restaurant has gluten free pasta and other menu items, without exception everyone understands immediately when I say "Sono celiaco." I am celiac. This is better than asking for something "senza glutine," for some reason. Then I'll ask if the cinghiale stew, for example, is OK for me to eat and the waiter will either nod with a shrug, or grimace, waggle a finger and give a definite no. No mistakes. They are very aware. Here in San Gimignano once again I have found a cafe that serves a pudino (sp? - I could check if internet were up) di riso - a delicious tart filled with a rice pudding/custard. Wonderful. Generally there is plenty for me to eat, and every meal has been outstanding. I am content. Last night, rabbit!

The duomo in San Gim is one of Tuscany's most beautiful. Fresco cycles by Gozzoli, di Freddi, Memmi and sculpture by Della Quercia ... in some ways this church rivals San Francesco in Assisi.

From Valerie

Last night David and I had dinner at the Vecchia Mura, a beautiful restaurant built in a former stable with a garden, all lit up for dinner outside.  For me, it  was artichokes in sage with lots of olive oil and osso bucco in pomidoro...I dipped my bread  in the artichoke sage concoction and it was like eating butter or candy.  The osso bucco at Berzitello in Rome was better...more white wine in the sauce!

Sunday in San Gimignano

David and I attended mass again, this time in the Cathedral in SG. The whole atmosphere in the village is very relaxed and low key. I'm so glad that we just stayed put here and got a good rest.  I'm hearing a rooster crowing outside as I write this and birds chirping.  Its been raining steadily all day and the valley around us has been completely socked in; internet down, nobody cares.  Now it's clearing and the rooster must think its a brand new day.  Now the church bells are having a go.

The mass this morning was so much better than last Sunday at San Lorenzo in Firenze.  I ate the wafer right on schedule...the priests were not nearly so intimidating.  They actually laughed and joked with each other.  At one point the priest who had given the sermon asked the children if any one remembered what the sermon had been about.  All the little ragazzi on the left of the altar actually got down on their knees and hid so he wouldn't see them.  One little girl bounced up to the altar and said

"it was about Lazaro"  She got a big round of applause.  The service was done with all the children of

the congregation (about 40) in choir pews on either side of the altar, in the transept. Two girls played the guitar and all the children sang.  It was so simple and innocent, There was a real feeling of joy and love in the space. It was like having a lesson on what church should be.  Grazie.

In the Piazza del Duomo after mass.

Socked in.

Clouds lifting.

Waiting for baroque trio ... lute, violin, soprano ... at the Teatro dei Leggieri.